OnPoint by Keith Ng

14

Breaking Point in Sri Lanka

"The Future. Today." boasts a rusty billboard in Batticaloa.

The coastal town in Sri Lanka’s troubled eastern province is at the centre of a renewed military campaign to drive out the separatist forces of the Tamil Tigers (LTTE). From bases around the district and from the town itself, government artillery bombard suspected LTTE positions day and night. For every new area levelled by the artillery, an influx of refugees arrive in the town with nothing but the clothes on their back.

The heavy military presence has done nothing to stop the killings and abductions of civilians that occur with terrorising frequency; the streets are dead quiet after dark, punctuated only by the pounding of artillery and the roar of rocket launches. The cellphone service advertised by the rusty billboard has been shut down as a security risk. With the 2002 ceasefire now broken in everything but in name, the future is not here today, and many Sri Lankans fear that it will not come tomorrow.

070316-008-Batticaloa

Looming crisis

In the past month, an estimated 60-80,000 refugees from the district have arrived to joined the 90,000 who were displaced by earlier offensives. The massive influx has swamped NGOs in the region and pushed infrastructure beyond its limits.

“There're huge gaps in terms of food, safe drinking water and sanitation provisions,” says UNICEF’s Head of Office in Batticaloa Christina de Bruin. “The overcrowding is causing concerns for basic hygiene in the camps.”

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“Agencies such as the UN are trying to respond to these huge needs, but there's still a long way to go because of the sheer number of internally displaced persons that have come in a very short timeframe.”

The UN’s World Food Program says that without additional funding, they only have enough supplies to feed the refugees until the end of April. With more refugees likely to become displaced over the coming weeks, the situation could quickly become a full-blown humanitarian disaster.

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For now, the refugees are happy to be here – anywhere, as long as it is away from the fighting. In one camp, the refugees take shelter under the only two trees to escape the scorching sun. An old woman and her family watch over their sick infant as he sleeps inside the tent, which they share with four other families – seventeen people in all.

Twelve days prior, their village was shelled without warning. “There was no time to collect anything,” says the old woman, “only the children.”

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Nearby, three sisters and their families are lucky to be alive. The shelling in their area started three weeks ago. The entire village took shelter in the local temple, in the hope that the gods would protect them.

The army used their multi-barrel rocket launchers – capable of launching 40 rockets in one salvo – to attack LTTE bases in the area. One of the rockets exploded close to the temple. Some of the villagers lost limbs in the attack. “I heard someone was killed, too,” one of the sisters says, “nobody knows, there were body parts everywhere.”

Like the other refugees, they scattered and fled. Nobody stayed to find out for sure.

Political fodder

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Around the numerous camps, refugees share the same dilemma: They fear for their lives if they return home, and they fear for their future if they stay at the camp.

“How are we supposed to bring up our children here?” asks a farmer, gesturing at the crowded camp. The latest round of displacements came during harvest – most of the crop was harvested, but little had been sold. Looters have probably taken most of it now, the farmer laments. He has lost the entire season’s work, but, like everyone else, he can only hope that his home and equipment will still be there when he returns to rebuild his life.

What will he do if there is nothing left? He does not know, but there is nothing he can do about it in the camps.

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Refugees from the Vaharai region, some of whom have been displaced for eight months, are now having their return fast-tracked. Many of them had been forced to flee once before, when the tsunami struck. One fisherman says that his house, built with international aid after the tsunami, has been destroyed again. Many people from his village were killed by shelling and crossfire as they fled down the coast; he will not go back until he is sure it is safe.

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The government is under pressure to solve the refugee problem in Batticaloa and to re-populate areas captured by the military. They want to see the refugees returned as soon as possible. But despite government assurances that Vaharai has been cleared of the LTTE, many refugees believe that the LTTE are simply hiding, and will resurface once the civilian population returns.

These refugees understand their political value. In LTTE territory, they are human shields. If the government tries to avoid killing them, this gives the LTTE a tactical advantage; if the government does not, their deaths give the LTTE a propaganda victory. In government territory, their flight is trumpeted as an escape from the clutches of the LTTE and a vote of confidence in the government; their return will be confirmation that the government is in control.

The refugees trust neither side. They confirm that the LTTE were operating near their homes. “But they do not come into the village,” they are quick to add. An identical, practiced response is found in every camp: The LTTE operates close to villages, but they do not harass the villagers, and the villagers do not give them support.

For now, they feel safe in Batticaloa. The artillery pound away in the background, but they are unconcerned: The shells are landing somewhere else, after all. More importantly, they are under the watchful eyes of the UN and dozens of NGOs, and they are keenly aware of the difference that international pressure can make.

“Help us stay here,” one woman pleas when she sees my camera and notepad, “we are depending on the international people.”

Their concern stems from growing reports of refugees being relocated by force or by threats of cutting off their food rations and land seizures. Some of these relocations have separated families, left women and children to fend for themselves, with no way for the family members to contact each other.

As I talked to the camp manager, two soldiers arrived. Upon seeing me, they gave a sheepish grin and left immediately. The refugees say that they were there to collect names and places of origin, in preparation for relocation.

UNICEF is monitoring the camps for forced relocation and the refugees have been given emergency numbers to reach UNICEF and UNHCR if the government tries to force them to return; but with the cell service shut down and no landline, the refugees are helpless.

An unlikely survivor

Life in the camps is virtual imprisonment. Men and women sit aimlessly from one day to the next, wondering what is left of their old lives and if they will ever be able to resume it. But one small island of normalcy can be found in these camps: Less than two weeks after their arrival, still living in tents and with the most basic of amenities, the children are going to school again.

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Education has been the most unlikely survivor of the civil war. Despite nearly a quarter-century of bloody conflict that has claimed over 68,000 lives, Sri Lanka still has a literacy rate of 92% – one of the highest among developing nations. Even deep in the Vanni, the heavily-militarised region controlled by the LTTE, the Sri Lankan government continues to fund and operate public schools.

The way in which education transcends the bitter divisions in Sri Lanka is noble, yet bizarre. One principal in Kilinochchi, the administrative capital of the LTTE, asked UNICEF to help them reinforce their school’s bunker. The principal is a civil servant on the government payroll, and the bunker was to protect the students from government bombing and shelling.

The importance of education for Sri Lankans is such that, even as the refugees flee across the country, the thought of schooling is not far behind. When the fighting started last August, local education directors expected children from 15 schools to be displaced and appealed to UNICEF for makeshift school buildings. Before the refugees arrived themselves, schools were being set up for their children.

A veteran of these displacements, Kanthasamy now works as an emergency education consultant for UNICEF. During his time as a government education director in the northern city of Jaffna, the LTTE-held city fell to government forces; the LTTE forced a massive exodus, leading more than 350,000 civilians into areas that the LTTE still controlled. He and his colleagues established over a hundred new schools within three weeks.

In the effort, principals lost their lives retrieving books, documents and even furniture from their old schools. “It’s a committed life,” says Kanthasamy, “you need a bit of sacrifice to be a teacher here.”

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Aside from the cultural importance of education, schools take on a special role in chaos of refugee life. “With the movements of people, concerns over security in the communities and in the camps, the school should be an oasis for these children,” says Rachel McKinney, the coordinator for UNICEF’s Emergency Education Program.

“Physically, it provides them with basic shelter. Emotionally, it provides them with support that they don't necessarily get in the camps and in the communities, because everyone around them is stressed. Their parents might not be able to provide the same support as they used to. Their friends might have been displaced to another area. Tensions are high all around, and so the school should really be a place where they can just be a child again.”

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New Zealand has provided $1.3m for UNICEF’s emergency and catch-up education programmes. This money has helped to provide study material and stationary for the children, as well as assistance to get the schools up and running. It also provides additional support for children who have missed a significant part of their education to prevent them from falling through the cracks.

“In some areas [in Vaharai], teachers could not get in for up to six months,” says McKinney. “For the last two terms, children there did not attend school. They can't perform at grade-level. They can't compete. And there's a cultural barrier against children repeat grades, because they're age-specific grades and age-specific examinations.”

The catch-up education programme has been working to produce a condensed curriculum to bring these children back up to speed. However, the renewed violence and massive displacements is throwing the education system – along with everything else in the Batticaloa district – into chaos once again.

Many classrooms in Batticaloa are now filled to the brim with refugee families and their few possessions. 19 schools in the district have been converted into makeshift camps by the desperate refugees. There is no place to teach the 13,000 students from these schools, and to compound the problem, another 30,000 new students have poured into the district. Some of the students from Vaharai are being returned to their homes, whiles others are being mixed with the new arrivals.

“[The new influx] drew on resources that were already stretched,” says McKinney. “We were under the assumption that [the catch-up education programme] would have access to these children in the same places of displacement … for up to six months. Now you have everyone lumped on top of each other, with many different types of problems, and an incredibly stressed education system.”

Even as NGOs, teachers and planners struggle to maintain education standards, the harsh realities of the Sri Lankan civil war are never far away.

In areas where the government jets drop their bombs, parents keep their children home. For a short time at least, notes Kanthasamy. After a few weeks, people get used to it and run out only to see where the bombs are going fall.

Back in Batticaloa, a multi-barrel rocket launcher has been positioned in the military camp close to a cluster of the town’s best schools. As the rockets blast off with a long series of deafening roars, students faint from fright. Cracks are beginning to show on the school’s walls, as well as on the teachers’ and students’ nerves.

The most terrifying threat of all is forced conscription. The LTTE has long been accused of recruiting child soldiers, but in the east of the country, where it is weakened and in retreat, another threat has emerged. The breakaway LTTE faction, led by former-LTTE commander Colonel Karuna, is now operating with impunity in Batticaloa.

Allan Rock, a special adviser to the UN representative for children and armed conflict who visited last year, claimed that the Karuna faction was responsible for the forced recruitment of children, and that the Sri Lankan army was guilty of complicity and even participation. The government denied the accusation and branded Rock as an LTTE sympathiser.

At the very least, the army has turned a blind eye to Karuna’s activities. In Batticaloa, the smoking guns are toted around in broad daylight. Armed men in civilian clothing – Karuna’s men – roam the streets. Occasionally they are seen casually chatting to government soldiers. Even more brazenly, offices for the Karuna faction sport 10-foot high signs with bright red and yellow logos, and are located adjacent to army checkpoints.

Abductions are taking place from the streets, from refugee camps, as well as from the homes of Batticaloa residents. In a report earlier this year, Human Rights Watch claimed that the Karuna faction had abducted at least 200 children from Batticaloa, and estimated that it could be as many as 600.

If the war continues, the future of these children may look the same as today.

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15

MAAATT DAAAMON

Far be it for me to say that Scorsese doesn't deserve an Oscar, but geez, did they have to give him one for The Departed? It wasn't so bad as a movie, but it was a pale imitation of the original, Infernal Affairs.

(Here is a link to Hamish McKenzie's interview with Infernal Affairs' writer, Alan Mak. Bumpy - but funny stuff.)

Sure, it added a bit of Irish-American homophobia and machismo into the mix, turned Hong Kong-spunk into Boston-rough, but essentially, it followed all the major twists and turns of the original, down to a hell of a lot of cinematic details that were simply yoinked. The female characters (which were purely decorative in the original) were merged into a new subplot - which was interesting, but that was the only improvement made on the original.

Jack Nicolson's own take on the boss character was just too frazzled and insane to be menacing; and god, Mark Wahlberg's character was just a completely incongruous and jarring addition, ripping apart every scene he's in, and ruining Martin Sheen's presence to boot.

They all took away from the delicious moral ambiguity of the original. Di Caprio came close, but wasn't quite there. Ironically, the beauty of Andy Lau's original performance was that it drew on the same self-loathing and fear as Matt Damon in The Talented Mr Ripley, yet, Matt Damon's character just became too much of an #######, and never really had that desperate desire to cling on to his life of respectability.

And oh god, the ending - the ending!

(Spoilers!)

(Spoilers!)

(Spoilers!)

In the original Infernal Affairs, two endings were produced - the real version and another one for release in Mainland China. In the Mainland version, Andy Lau (the fake cop) exits the lift, and is immediately confronted by a whole bunch of cops. They know everything - of course they do, they're the AUTHORITIES - they arrest him and take him away. The mainland censors were uncomfortable with the idea that the main character could be shown to be a dirty criminal, kill people, cheat the system and get away with it.

This was retarded, of course. The whole *point* of the movie was the same as The Talented Mr Ripley's - it was about the ambiguity of living a double life, the lies, the guilt, the desperate, muffled cries of not being able to tell anyone. And like Mr Ripley, it's the loneliness of the character (after killing everyone who knows the truth) that leaves the chill in your bones.

It's pretty goddamn disappointing that Scorsese has as much faith in his audience as the Chinese government censors have in theirs.

(End spoilers.)

(End spoilers.)

(End spoilers.)


In other news...

I'm in Sri Lanka! I'm going off-blog for a while - have a pile of deadlines waiting for me. So, it's likely that I'll do a time-delayed travel blog when I'm back vegging out in Hong Kong, so I can do it properly with photos and all.

Also...

Keeping a close eye on the Rickards/Shipton/Schollum case.

Of course, this case was the one that was being seriously threatened by the pamphleteers last year. It's likely that the lawyers had a go at arguing that a fair trial was made impossible by the pamphleteers' action.

I'm not sure whether a conviction or another accquittal would hurt the reputation of the police more...

8

D47: Dynamite!

Meacheakalai put two mats down on the hard ground for us. The dogs circled and howled. It was getting late, and only the faintest glow seeped from the horizon. As Meacheakalai, his wife and six children sat down on the dirt, on the other side of the courtyard, the lone light bulb swayed ever-so-gently. The family cow stood directly underneath the light, while the rest of the world faded into darkness.

The sound of a massive explosion rumbled across the plains.

"Um," I asked casually, "what was that?"

--

After a chance meeting in Delhi, I came to Madurai to cover the work of an NGO called SHEPHERD. Their work varies widely, but focuses on the empowerment of rural people, especially women. They've also taken to spreading organic farming and tree-planting, with a little help from the New Zealand High Commission.

We'd been through many farms that day, and Meacheakalai's was the last on the list - and the most remote, tucked away behind the folds of dry riverbeds and small, pudding-like rock-hills.

Away from the village, his and two other families worked that piece of land, and they are in the process of converting to organic. Only three of the children are Meacheakalai's - the rest are from the other families, hanging around to see the spectacle: me. Several more children emerged from the darkness, and ranged from babies to teens, from shy to downright camera-hogs. (Excuse the poor photos here - it really was very dark, and I’m not very good at night photography.)

The explosion, he explained through SHEPHERD's Paramasamy, was on a distant quarry. Nearby, a mighty pillar of rock looked concerned.

--

We visited a village that was, literally, the shithole of Madurai. All the sewage and all the rubbish from the city of 1.1 million ended up here. The village made its living by growing crops with the raw sewage.

The sewage came through a number of open sewers, then flowed through irrigation channels and into the fields.

On the other side of the road, there was rubbish. Hills of rubbish. Rubbish so vast, so deep and so thick, there was a road *over* it:

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As we drove over hill after hill of rubbish, more trucks came by, struggling to unload as the heaps became higher and higher:

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The hellish ambience was complemented by plastic fires; though small, their heat was intense, even against the backdrop of a scorching sun. The fires sent hot air straight up, sucking up swirling pillars of trash.

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This was ecological dystopia meets Dante's Inferno. A world with gentle rolling hills of garbage, glistening rivers of raw sewage, diseased crows circling tornadoes of plastic bags.

It was nuts. Just fucking nuts.

--

Of course, the villagers are sick, there are social, economic as well as ecological problems. But the rest will, unfortunately, have to wait until someone gives me money. I’m saving the A-material for an article that I hope will be published in New Zealand’s favourite weekly mag for lonesome housewives. In the meantime, feel free to browse through my photos on Flickr.

I’ll be posting more about the gypsy village at some stage.

(I’ve finally forked out my $25 USD, a goddamn decade after all the cool kids have done it, and spent the last three days uploading and sorting photos. Dangerous combination: Giving a jobless obsessive-compulsive a *sorting-engine*, five hundred photos, half a dozen dimensions to sort by and near-unlimited space for filling out details (that need, of course, to be accurate). It still irks me that the camera had the wrong time for the first set, and I don’t have a point of reference to reset it to the right time.)

ANYWAY…

The experience was pretty goddamn awesome. Sitting around with a farmer, chatting about the price of rice. Surrounded by a simple farmhouse and the wide-open plains, nothing stirring except for cicadas and several hundred sticks of dynamite levelling a hill.

And of course, the little slice of hell. It was terrifying, but an absolute privilege to see.

I’m pretty glad I decided to be a journalist. You get to see all sorts of, um, shit. Who else would have people taking them to refuse wastelands? For free, even!

This gig rocks.

This trip was made possible with help from the Asia:NZ Foundation, who gave me money. I encourage you to do the same.

12

D38: Hippy Death Ray

India has found my Achilles Heel - a lethal combination of heat and humidity - and has hit me with a remorseless bout of heat rash. During my convalescence, I've been cowering in the air-conditioned fortress of my hotel room, scratching everywhere but in my notebook.

Am I too late to blog about the underclass? Are they still there? I have a poor connection to the New Zealand zeitgeist here, but I'll add my two rupees worth to the debate.

There is a huge wallop of situational irony in writing about the deprivation of people living in state homes and eating nutritionally dubious food when, walking 50m down the road, I can find a dozen people sleeping on the street, including many children. One family of three - a mother and two skinny children, both about 8 or 9 years old - were sleeping on a hand-pulled wagon. There are often small, blanket-covered lumps on the ground, and you wonder whether there's actually a person underneath, and whether they're alive.

I know, I know - social conscience doesn't reach this far. But it does put New Zealand's problems into perspective, anyway.

So... Key's trying to turn a social malady into a national crisis? How terribly Leader-of-the-Opposition of him to do so.

But for once, this is not an issue that ends with "and this will add an extra $?? million to the economy". And National isn't gunning for the underclass vote here. Of course he's still politicking, but at least he's talking about governance beyond economic management, and about politics beyond the pork-barrel variety.

The aim is to galvanise voters around - get this - an common ideal. Or a common fear.

That's the question. Is he really interested in helping those who are left behind, or is he just afraid of what the underclass might do; does he want us to strive for a Kiwi ideal, or does he want us to fear the poor?

It's natural that he'd have a stab both ways, but he needs to decide which one it is, and in so doing, decide which kind of politics he wants to pursue.

The proof will be in the policies, not the rhetoric. But if he proves genuine and he steers away from fearmongering, I think that Key has an opportunity to inject some long-absent idealism into the political arena.

And if that frames the agenda for the next election (rather than tax-goddamn-cuts), then Key would already have done the nation a significant service.

--

I've stopped being surprised by India now. Not that India isn't surprising, but I think my faculty for surprise is dulled - as have my regard for personal safety.

After a month of constant death-defiance on the roads, I've become blasé about a pair of oncoming buses on both sides of the road. And after that, drinking tap water - to the shock of my traveling companion Svenda - just didn't seem so bad-ass anymore.

There is a small temple around the corner of my hotel. There was a small elephant outside it the other day. We gave each other "what are you looking at" looks, and moved on.

Had French onion soup - was full of pepper and spices. Had some tea - it was full of chilly. Had chicken soup, donuts, etc. You get the point. Man the tiger prawns were good, though.

--

Have been doing a story on eco-housing and renewable energy in a place called Auroville - a community that follows the teachings of The Mother blah blah Divine Consciousness blah blah human unity etc.

They're an enclave of people from around the world who built a community from the ground up. Starting from barren ground, they've reforested the area and put up everything from shacks, to stylish hippy eco-buildings to death rays and time machines.

They're probably backed by the Hanso Foundation.

I didn't get to see the death ray. It's a 15m diameter parabolic solar dish that aims sunlight into a central receiver, which transfers the energy into the control centre below, cleverly disguised as a kitchen. The solar bowl is used for cooking, they claim.

It's currently closed for repairs, but I hope that they'll demonstrate its awesome power when I come back in March. I'll buy a puppy for the occasion.

The centre of the city is dominated by an enormous golden sphere. Enormous. It's just a giant time-machine in the middle of nowhere. Again, it's closed for repairs, but they tell me it's a "meditation chamber".

I'm come back for those later, but they did have some other cool stuff.

For example, a scum pond with water splashing around. Impressed? The algae is supposed to be able to purify and desalinate water *and* be harvested and burned afterwards as fuel.

They also showed me solar water heating systems which used glass evacuated tube (double layered glass tubes which uses vacuum in between to retain heat). The tubes heat water to 60 degrees but were cool to the touch. The system in India costs around $500 - 40% less than conventional systems which used a lot of copper.

And finally, a landscaped garden that was actually a sewage treatment plant in disguise. Every building has a series of tanks where waste water flow through. The first two primary treatment tanks are hidden, but the other two looks like a flower garden and a lily pond. Neither looked - or smelled - like they had shit running through them.

I spent the day riding around on a motorcycle (no helmet - gasp!) with a French woman, who showed me all the places. She later invited me to her amazing custom-built house, which was naturally air-cooled through some ingenious design features.

Her husband worked for an oil company, she later noted in passing.

--

On my way back, I passed by a giant temple with a very angry, 20m tall god with a skull at his feet. Passing through the mouth of a giant tiger, I walked down to the dark basement, topless. The walls were lined with meditating figures. A young acolyte/priest took a plate with an oil lamp and a small bowl of red powder, walked to the altar, waved it around, and beckoned me to come. He anointed me with a spot on my forehead.

I am now holier than thou. I think.

--

Click here for more NGA.

3

D24: Funnies, Randoms, Links

1) Back in Chennai. The air is so thick, you can trip over it. First time in my life when I wished I had *more* nosehair.

2) Had an Indian haircut to go with my Indian shirt and pants. I am now virtually indistinguishable from an ordinary Indian, except for my skin and my face. Apparently, a haircut here means you get a massage, too. Apparently, a massage here means that they punch you in the back of the head. Like what boxers do with those speed-bags. That was alright, but I nearly cracked up when he started pounding my head from above. Still, for $1, those were the cheapest punches to the head I ever got. (Last time, three punches cost me a camera.)

3) It hasn't rained since I got here. I haven't even seen a cloud. It's creepy.

4) Didn't think I would, but I'm sick of Indian food already. The Chinese food is pretty dire - the first noodle that I had was packet noodles with a bowl of lime-cordial curry. I ended up having steak - beef steak - in Bangalore. It was good, or as Homer would say, sacrilicious.

5) The concept of privacy in India is a bit strange. The several times when I forget to lock the door, at 7am sharp, some guy hits the buzzer on the door, then barges in half a second later, looks at me on my bed and asks: "Shoe shine?"

No. No shoe shine. I don't even have shoes.

6) From the "Tourist-becomes-toured" file: Kept running into this ridiculously-tanned Scandanavian couple. Saw them in the park yesterday having an argument, so I went over to see what the matter was. "That's so *rude*," says the woman. Turns out, some Indians had asked if they could get a photo of them. They said yes - but only if they give them 10 rupees (33 NZ cents) to give to someone who needed it. The Indians had taken the shot then walked off.

--

It's interested to hear similar experiences from one Mr Hamish McKenzie, a fellow student media alumni who's ended working as a journalist in Hong Kong. He's just been off to Shanghai and ends his tale of adventure and copyright violation with a story about a shoe shine, too.

He also has an exclusive interview with Richard Meros, the author of On the Conditions and Possibilities of Helen Clark Taking Me As Her Young Lover, discussing his latest project.

--

Finally, here's a double-dose of NGA, because I couldn't post it last week:

Click here for more NGA.